The three respondent’s are likely correct in guessing, most people (in general) can't go buy and solder if their lives depended on it. No one asked if you had some, none, extensive or access to technicians who do soldering. No one asked you if your goal was to get it done with a technicians help or to purchase a completed finished end user installable bits and make it work yourself. When in reality, it’s just is not your question which is in error, it appears to be the experience of or the presuming of the posters which have limited the material factual discussion of options. They fail to set any boundaries of what you or the audience would consider acceptable and worse pass off (with scorn for your asking it) your question as either foolish or as factually materially not technologically possible. Responses fail to ask before they answer follow up questions. In this case, the prior responses to the question presume to know you, they are in a context that stereotype the entire reading audience as only able to consume a shrink wrapped utter non tech end user answer. will work fine.Hi Aaron, Two kinds of people in the world, Tool users and tool builders. You won’t be powering anything major with it, but a mouse, phone, SDCard reader etc. Now you can use some USB-C devices with your Macbook. Now, cut or file a slot into the side of the Macbook chassis and slot that USB-C socket in. Just pick whichever of the 3 usb sockets on the motherboards is easiest and solder it up. In the image below I’ve highlighted the 4 pins to attach to… The other end of those wires need to be soldered to their relevant pins directly on the motherboard of your Macbook. So, on the USB-C and circuit board, locate the solder points for those and solder a wire on to each pad. Those 4 tabs are required for USB2.0 compatibility and the other 5 are fancy pins that are used for USB3 to help it achieve those faster speeds. You’ll notice one side has 4 tabs and the other has 5 tabs. So, put some aloe on those burns (we both know you tried to do it with the soldering iron instead of using the correct tool for the job and have now burnt the shit out of yourself) and take a look at the USB3 plug you just removed. I used a hot air gun for this, but it can be done with a soldering iron too. Now, put some bandaids on (because we both know you didn’t even try to cut it open the proper way and just hacked at it until it was done and now you’re bleeding everywhere) and separate the USB3 plug from the circuit board. Get the hacksaw/Dremel and cut it open until you have the following… So anyway, first step is to cut this little bastard open. Easy way to prove that, plug it in and try it.
Although my laptop also doesn’t have USB3, fortunately USB3 is backwards compatible with USB2.0 which therefore means this USB-C adaptor is quite happy to talk to my USB2.0 port. It’s a USB-C female to USB3 male adaptor. First thing you’re gonna need is one of these… So here’s how I added USB-C to my Macbook.
I hate having to carry a support team worth of crap just for a laptop. Without a USB-C port I find there’s a few bits and pieces I can’t use without also hauling around an adaptor. The only problem is that it has no USB-C port. So I want to hold on to it as long as I can. Anyway, it’s an i7 with a nice big screen which is great for when I’m programming and still really beefy even when compared with modern Apple laptops. It’s the same one I repaired the graphics card on by putting the motherboard in the oven on high, several times. So I have this Macbook Pro 17 inch from 2011, you know…from when Apple seemed to give a shit about making well built and powerful laptops.